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So that's how I wanted to do Cate as the stepmother." There's a bit of Charles James in the drape, a bit of Dior, Powell says, "and that Cecil Beaton photograph [1948], I always use it as a reference whatever I'm doing." Alongside those references were 19th-century images, "particular paintings like that Sargent, Madame X ." So Blanchett dons several vintage parures by Joseff of Hollywood, the costume-jewellery supplier of the 1940s that was renowned for gold-tone sets

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